A dripping faucet is the plumbing problem people are most likely to ignore and most likely to be able to fix themselves, so the free version is below before anything else. What we will say plainly: faucets fail faster in San Antonio than almost anywhere, because water testing 15 to 20 grains per gallon deposits minerals on every sealing surface inside the fixture.
Try this before you call anyone
If the complaint is weak flow at a single faucet, this resolves it roughly half the time and costs nothing but an hour of waiting.
- Unscrew the aerator from the tip of the spout, by hand or with tape-wrapped pliers so the finish is not marked.
- Take it apart. There is usually a screen and one or two plastic inserts — note the order they came out in.
- Soak the parts in white vinegar for an hour to dissolve the scale.
- Scrub gently with an old toothbrush, rinse, and reassemble in the same order.
If flow returns, it was scale and you are finished. If it does not, and other fixtures are weak too, the faucet is a bystander — that usually points at a pressure regulator, a partly closed main, or a leak upstream.
What usually goes wrong
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A constant drip from the spout
A worn cartridge, ceramic disc or rubber washer depending on the faucet type. Scale scores the sealing surfaces until they no longer close fully.
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A leak at the base of the spout
Failed O-rings where the spout swivels. Different part, different repair from a spout drip, and routinely confused with it.
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Weak flow at one faucet only
Almost always a clogged aerator. If every fixture is weak, the problem is supply rather than fixture.
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A handle that is stiff or loose
Mineral buildup binding the cartridge, or a stripped handle broach. Forcing a stiff handle is how a cartridge gets destroyed.
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Water under the sink
Supply connections, the drain tailpiece, or the faucet body itself. Worth identifying fast — cabinet bases absorb water and stay wet.
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A sprayer that will not retract or weeps
A failed diverter, or a pull-down hose worn through where it passes the counter deck.
Repair or replace
| Situation | Usually the right call |
|---|---|
| Drip, stiff handle or base leak on a quality faucet | Repair Cartridges and O-ring kits are inexpensive and good brands still supply parts. |
| Builder-grade fixture older than about ten years | Replace Parts are often discontinued and the finish is usually past its best. |
| Corrosion or pitting on the faucet body | Replace Once the body is compromised, sealing internally will not hold. |
| You want a different configuration | Replace, and check hole spacing first. Three-hole to single-hole needs a deck plate. |
| Second repair on the same faucet within two years | Replace In this water the pattern rarely improves. |
Why they wear out faster in this city
Cartridges and ceramic discs work by two smooth surfaces sealing against each other. Hard water leaves mineral deposits on those surfaces, and every turn of the handle drags the deposits across the seal like grit. What would be a decade of service elsewhere often becomes four or five years here.
Aerators show it first, because the screen is the finest opening in the system. If you are cleaning aerators more than once a year, that is a signal about the water rather than about the faucets, and a whole-home softener addresses the cause instead of the symptom.
Fitting a new faucet
A standard replacement takes an hour to ninety minutes. We shut off the supplies, remove the old fixture, and clean the deck properly — old plumber’s putty and mineral crust left in place is exactly why a new faucet can end up sitting unevenly — then set the new unit, fit new supply lines rather than reusing the old ones, and test under pressure.
Two things are worth checking before you buy: how many mounting holes your sink or countertop has, and whether the sink is stainless, composite or cast iron, because that affects which mounting hardware works. Send us a photo and we will tell you what fits.
What it costs
- Repair or replacementA cartridge or O-ring kit is the low end. A full replacement includes removal, deck cleaning, new supply lines and the fixture itself.
- Which faucetKitchen pull-downs and widespread lavatory sets take longer than a single-hole bar faucet. The fixture you choose is usually the bigger number.
- What is under the sinkSeized angle stops are common on older installs, and replacing them while we are in there costs far less than coming back for them.
- How many fixturesSeveral faucets in one visit costs less per fixture than separate appointments.
We will tell you honestly when a repair is the better value and when you are paying to keep a fixture alive that is not worth it.
When it is not the faucet
If flow is weak at every fixture rather than one, the faucet is not the problem — that pattern usually means a failed pressure regulator, a partly closed main, or a leak upstream, and a meter that keeps turning with the house shut off points to a leak outside. If the water is discoloured or smells, that is a supply or water heater question. Under-sink water that keeps coming back after a faucet repair is often the drain rather than the supply, in which case it belongs with drain work or the disposal if one is fitted.
Work is carried out by licensed plumbers under our Responsible Master Plumber, license RMP-43333, issued by the Texas State Board of Plumbing Examiners. You can verify that license yourself.
What San Antonio homeowners say
Reviews pulled live from our Google Business Profile, not retyped here.
Questions homeowners ask us
Why does it drip even when I turn it off tight?
The internal cartridge, ceramic disc or washer has worn and no longer seals. Turning harder does not help and usually accelerates the damage. It is a part replacement rather than an adjustment.
Why is pressure low at one faucet but fine everywhere else?
A clogged aerator, nearly every time. The aerator screen is the finest opening in the system so it catches mineral scale first. Unscrewing it and soaking it in vinegar for an hour resolves it in most cases.
Is a dripping faucet actually worth fixing?
Yes, on two counts. A steady drip wastes a meaningful amount of water over a year, and the drip itself is evidence the cartridge is failing — which tends to progress into a handle that will not shut off properly at all.
How long should a faucet last here?
Roughly four to eight years for a builder-grade fixture, longer for quality brands, which is shorter than the same faucet would manage in softer water. Mineral content is the limiting factor rather than the mechanism.
Can I replace a faucet myself?
Often, particularly a straightforward like-for-like swap. The usual snags are corroded mounting nuts in a tight cabinet, supply lines that will not seal when reused, and hole spacing that does not match the new fixture.
What causes a leak at the base of the spout rather than the tip?
Worn O-rings where the spout rotates on the body. It is a different repair from a dripping spout and the two are frequently confused, which is why replacing a cartridge sometimes fails to stop a base leak.
Do I need to shut off water to the whole house?
Not usually. Most sinks have angle stops under the cabinet that isolate that fixture. If those valves are seized, which is common on older ones, the main does have to come off — and replacing the angle stops while we are there is worth doing.
Will you install a faucet I bought myself?
Yes. Send a photo of the fixture and of your sink deck beforehand and we will confirm it fits before the visit.
Try the aerator first. Call us for anything leaking.
If it is dripping, weeping at the base, or there is water in the cabinet, that is a part failing rather than a quirk — and cabinet bases do not dry out.
Silverback Plumbing & Drain provides licensed plumbing and drain service for homes and businesses throughout the San Antonio area. From emergency repairs to routine maintenance, we diagnose the problem, explain the fix, and get it done right the first time.
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Mark Vargas, Responsible Master Plumber #43333 Licensed through the Texas Board of Plumbing Examiners P.O. Box 4200, Austin, Texas 78765 (800-845-6584)